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Artists & Works
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Sonia Delaunay
French, born Russia (1885-1979)
COMPOSITION (n.d.)
etching
19.5 x 15.5 |
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STYLE: ABSTRACT
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Sonia Tirk Delaunay moved to Paris in 1905, where she met Robert
Delaunay and worked in both fine art and fashion. The Delaunays
became part of the Dada milieu, living their art in every part of
their lives, and they also were leaders of Orphism, an attempt to
soften Cubism with lyrical color. Delaunays clothing designs
reflected new ways of thinking about the body and about identity.
She returned to painting fulltime in the thirties and joined the
Abstraction-Creation group. She was also active as a printmaker
and designer. Her abstract works were displayed at the Louvre when
she donated a large group of them along with the work of her deceased
husband to the Musee National d'Art Moderne. Since her death, she
has had many major retrospectives.
Sonia Delaunays committment to developing intense color abstract
compositions did not change from the time she and Robert Delaunay
were leaders of the Orphism movement in Paris. This print is typical
of the style that Delaunay became known for, concentric bands of
monochromatic half circles, and other basic geometric combinations.
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CRITICAL EXCERPTS
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Paul Trachtman, Smithsonian, 7/96
The bold, geometric clothing designs of Sonia Delaunay, a painter
who once collaborated on fashions with Coco Chanel, are another
highlight of the Portland Museum show. Delaunay, like Picasso, designed
costumes for Diaghilev's avant-garde Ballet Russes, but her successes
in the world of textiles and fashion took Cubism off the stage and
into the streets, ready to wear.
Her dresses first appeared in Paris just before the war, in 1913-14,
when she wore them to the Bal Bullier, a popular dance hall where
artists and poets tried out new dances like the fox-trot and the
tango. Delaunay's dresses were made from geometric scraps of various
fabrics, combining taffeta and tulle, flannel and silk, in bright,
contrasting colors, from violet and green to scarlet and blue. She
dressed her husband, Robert, also a painter, with similar style.
One account describes him as wearing "a red coat with blue
collar, a green jacket, sky-blue waistcoat, a tiny red tie, black
pants, red socks, blackand-yellow shoes." By the war's end,
Delaunay could sell her designs from her own Paris boutique and
attract such famous customers as the Hollywood actress Gloria Swanson.
By 1923 her geometric patterns were being printed by a French silk
manufacturer. Soon after, her garments could be found in London
and New York department stores.
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Fiona MacCarthy, The
Guardian, 8/6/95
She worked with Robert on a series of Electric Prism paintings based
on the effect of the newly installed electric lighting in the streets
of Paris. This was the artist of the `Tango-Magic City', designing
a futuristic age. For her friend Blaise Cendrars's modern epic poem
La Prose du Transsiberien et de la Petite Jehanne de France, a hymn
to the Trans-Siberian railway, Delaunay created a `simultaneous' book,
produced in a limited edition of 150. It concertina'd downwards to
a length of two metres, colour, word and image merging. You could
read it at a glance, speed being of the essence. Cendrars was ecstatic:
`my poem is more soaked in colour than my life.' Sonia referred to
herself and Robert as `two moving forces. One made one thing and one
made another.' A reason for her own, long delayed, appreciation is
that she did not follow the easily categorised, easel painter's route
but chose to work in other mediums: embroidery, patchwork, bookbinding,
ceramics. She has suffered not just from prejudice against women artists
but also from the refusal to take seriously practitioners in the decorative
arts. Delaunay saw her work as `noble', implicated as it was with
the intimate rhythms of daily life, the fabric of the home. A weakness
of this book is lack of context: a comparison with Roger Fry's Omega
Workshop would have been valuable. |
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